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THE IMPORTANCE OF EXFOLIATION
WHAT IS EXFOLIATION? Exfoliation is defined as the removal of surface dry
skin cells.
HOW DO I KNOW IF I NEED TO EXFOLIATE? A simple test you can do at home to see
if you have surface dry skin cells on your skin is to take a piece of clear tape
and apply it to the forehead. Rub it gently and remove. Look at the tape, and if
it appears foggy and there are little pieces of flaky skin, then you need to
exfoliate!
WHY IS EXFOLIATION IMPORTANT? Exfoliation is considered one of the most
important techniques that you can perform on your skin to resolve certain skin
problems as well as to achieve healthy and glowing skin.
Post-breakout red/dark marks – Often, the real concern is not so much the
actual blemishes, but rather the red, dark marks that remain on the skin long
after the breakout has healed. The key to fading those post-breakout marks is to
increase your exfoliation. The more you remove the surface damaged skin tissue,
the more you are ridding the skin of the dark marks and encouraging the
formation of new healthy (non-scarred) skin tissue. The result is more
even-toned skin with less scarring.
Clogged pores – Clogged pores aren’t infected blemishes, but rather
blackheads, small whiteheads, and little clogged bumps on the skin, often on the
forehead. The same rules apply as with blemished skins. The more you remove
surface dry skin cells (usually caused by harsh, drying products), the less oil
will stay trapped and congested in the pores.
Hyperpigmentation – These are the brown spots that come from age,
pregnancy, hormonal changes, and genetics. These spots tend to become more
apparent and darker as the skin ages. Exfoliation is beneficial for breaking up
the pigmented cells to allow them to fade. Combined with a skin lightening
agent, such as Vitamin C or Hydroquinone, exfoliation will help accelerate the
fading process.
Dry skin – Especially in the winter, exfoliation is very important. So
often when the skin is dry, we tend to load up on heavier creams to compensate
for the dryness. But dry skin means you have dry skin cell buildup. And the more
you layer on the heavier creams, the more you are trying to re-hydrate dry skin
cells, which makes no sense! Instead, increase your exfoliation to remove the
dry skin cells, and then moisturize the new skin cells, resulting in a moister
skin.
Those who desire smoother skin – One way to instantly smooth the skin is to
exfoliate! When you rid the skin of the surface dry skin cells, you create a
smoother appearance.
Those concerned about anti-aging – The skin’s natural exfoliation process
slows as the skin ages, resulting in an accumulation of dry skin cells. As you
increase your exfoliation, you are tricking the skin into acting young again.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD ONE EXFOLIATE?
There are two types of exfoliants. First, a
“chemical” or “enzyme” exfoliant does the work for you. You apply it,
leave it on the skin, and it works to dissolve the dry skin cells. These
exfoliants include ingredients such as Glycolic Acid, AHAs and BHA, and enzymes
such as Pumpkin, Papaya, and Pineapple. Second, a “physical” exfoliant means
that you have to do the work. These exfoliants include facial brushes, sponges,
and facial scrubs.
For most skin types, this would be a mild alcohol-free Glycolic Acid Serum or
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) used under a night cream for seven nights on, seven
nights off. This way, you’re still getting an intensive exfoliation, but you
also give your skin a break. You’d combine this with a very mild facial scrub
twice a week to lift off and remove the dissolved skin cells.
For sensitive skin, using enzymes instead of
acids, as
these tend to be gentler on delicate skins.
For severely sun damaged skin, a prescription Retinol is effective because it
exfoliates more deeply in the skin.
HOW DOES A PERSON KNOW IF S/HE IS GETTING TOO MUCH EXFOLIATION? If they use a
facial scrub and your skin turns bright red and feels irritated afterwards, it
probably means that the grains used in the scrub are too large. We suggest
avoiding natural scrubs, such as those with apricot pits or walnut husks. These
grains have sharp edges that can lacerate the skin. Look for micro-beadlets, as
they will roll across the skin and not cause irritation. If you are using chemical exfoliants and your skin starts to dry
out, you may be removing too much of the skin’s protective barrier, letting
out much-needed moisture.
WHICH PROFESSIONAL SALON EXFOLIATING TREATMENTS ARE BENEFICIAL? Many skin
care salons offer microdermabrasion, mini-brasion (a gentler form of
microdermabrasion), chemical peels, and enzyme peels to give your skin a more
intensive exfoliation than you can do at home.
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